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NABOKOV'S SATYR

Nabokov’s Satyr, Ramsey Canyon, AZ (Mike Watson)

While researching range-restricted, spring-flying butterflies that I might see on my recent California & Arizona Specialities Birdquest tour I was struck by the fact that most of the special butterflies fly in the Arizona ‘second spring’ monsoon season from July to September. However, there are a few that could be seen in the actual springtime of my visit, in early May. One of these caught my eye, Nabokov’s Satyr. Not only as it carries a famous name, but I noted that it belonged to a new butterfly genus for me Cyllopsis, the ‘gemmed satyrs’. Essentially subtle browns, with jewel-like studs embedded on their hindwing borders, like blues. What a wonderful combination! There are more than 30 members of this Neotropical genus, three of which occur in the southern United States: Gemmed Satyr Cyllopsis gemma; Canyonland Satyr C. pertepida and Nabokov’s Satyr C. pyracmon. My pal Craig Robson, who spends part of the year in Southeast Arizona, said the latter was ‘easy anywhere in the mountains on trails/in shade’ and looking at the number of INaturalist.org sightings I thought I should have no trouble in catching up with it in early May. With many pairs of eyes in my group I mentioned that we should be on the lookout for any small brown butterflies and sure enough on our first morning in the Sky Island canyons, at the lovely Madera Canyon near Green Valley, while returning from a successful hike in search of Coppery-tailed Trogon, sharp-eyed Richard spotted one. It was a Nabokov’s, albeit a worn individual with a torn hindwing. Very exciting nevertheless! Thanks Richard! After alighting on a stone, it flitted off quickly uphill and into dense scrub and out of reach. Moving with surprising speed at ground level, it skipped through the bases of thorn bushes, a most annoying habit of this species I was to discover in the coming days.

Nabokov’s Satyr, Madera Canyon, AZ (Mike Watson)

Interest in butterflies on our birding tours is very limited, so my opportunities are therefore compressed into a few minutes here and there. The next canyon bottom we visited, the lovely Miller Canyon also produced Nabokov’s Satyr at each stop, but in the heat of the midday they were completely restless and rarely paused for more than a few seconds on their ramblings through the shady understorey of the evergreen oak and Alligator Juniper woodland, when they would angle their wings perpendicular to the shafts of sunlight reaching the leaf litter, in the manner of a grayling back home. This did not allow me enough time to get in position for a photo before they were off again. Goodness me, it was hard work following these pesky creatures round and round a small patch of woodland, before ultimately losing contact, as they made off through the bushes. All too soon, my group returned from a hummingbird feeder sojourn with my co-leaders and that was that.

Nabokov’s Satyr, Ramsey Canyon, AZ (Mike Watson)

They were indeed in each canyon and, finally, it was in Ramsey Canyon, the most famous of all the birding spots in the Huachuca Mountains, that I could finally spend some quality macro time with the satyrs, significantly late in the afternoon when they settled down to visit wet patches of ground in the watercourses, sometimes directly under hummingbird feeders! Most were quite worn by this stage in their flight season and it was more difficult to read their undersides to separate them from the very similar Canyonland Satyr (which is usually found further uphill rather than in the valley bottom) but they were very approachable now. A very satisfying experience to go alongside the other avian treasures of these precious habitats. How many takers for ‘I’ve got a settled Nabokov’s Satyr here’? None at all. We are so few.

Madera Canyon, Arizona - Nabokov’s Satyr habitat, oak and Alligator Juniper woodland (Mike Watson)

The butterfly is named after the Russian/American author Vladimir Nabokov (1899 – 1977), a fascinating character whose most famous work is the 1955 novel Lolita. It is hailed one of the greatest literary works of the 20th century but the subject is such a hot potato now! He was born of Russian nobility but moved gradually westwards, fleeing the Russian Revolution and then Hitler’s Germany, before settling in the United States and gaining citizenship in 1945. Nabokov was a true polymath and as well as an acclaimed author, he was also an accomplished entomologist and has several butterfly and moth species named after both him and his literary works! He wrote in three languages; Russian, English and French, gave boxing lessons and composed chess problems. He lectured at Cornell, (where one of his students was US Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsberg). He was mostly concerned with studying blue butterflies and genetic research later supported his hypothesis that the Polyommatus blues came to the Americas over the Bering Strait in five waves, eventually reaching Chile. I was fascinated to read that Nabokov did not learn to drive, he got his wife Véra to drive him around in search of butterflies and in 1967, he commented ‘The pleasures and rewards of literary inspiration are nothing beside the rapture of discovering a new organ under the microscope or an undescribed species on a mountainside in Iran or Peru. It is not improbable that had there been no revolution in Russia, I would have devoted myself entirely to lepidopterology and never written any novels at all.’ Interestingly ‘his’ satyr was first described in 1867 and the use of his name stems from the description of its subspecies named nabokovi in his honour by Lee D. Miller in 1974, from none other than Ramsey Canyon, Arizona (!). The epithet Nabokov’s was later adopted as the common name for the larger species. I hope it does not get cancelled, as is the current Cornell habit with birds. We would surely end up with some hopeless anodyne alternative.

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EMPEROR PENGUIN

Emperor Penguin, Fridtjof Sound (Mike Watson)

We had spent the night with the bow of MV Ortelius nudged into a large ice flow at the southern end of Fridtjof Sound (on the southern shore of the Antarctic Sound) and we waited for news of the weather and our chance of being able to fly to Snow Hill. There was some low cloud here, so we knew that things weren’t great for our immediate vicinity. Time ticked away as we watched Snow Petrels, Adelie and Gentoo Penguins as well as South Polar Skuas around the boat. Then BOOM! Emperor Penguin on the ice by the boat, spotted by AEL George Kennedy, thanks mate! Panic stations as folks made their way onto deck. It stood only a few metres off the bow, calling to some long-lost pal before it part waddled/part tobogganed to the water’s edge and gracefully slipped into the dark depths. It reappeared briefly but dived and was lost to sight. It must have swum far this time as we did not relocate it. I wonder if its disappearance had something to do with the pod of Orcas that was called soon afterwards? It would be able to hear them from a great distance! Everyone could now enjoy the Orcas too, as they cruised the large expanse of ice-free water behind us. They belonged to Type B – the Antarctic Peninsula form with a huge white oval mark on the side of the head. Shame we could not see their golden saddles though. The pod of around 10 included a calf or two and a couple of large males. Wow that was something, Antarctica in a nutshell! But OMG! David was still in the shower unfortunately and the Emperor had gone by the time he got dressed. Lucky for him it resurfaced sometime later about 100m away and stood on the ice with some Adelies and giant petrels. Phew!

Emperor Penguin, Fridtjof Sound (Mike Watson)

Type B Orcas, Fridtjof Sound (Mike Watson)

This afternoon saw us doing some non-birding activities. Scenic helicopter rides started and the saloon transformed into a departure lounge, minus duty free and soon most people were whizzing off to take a closer look at icebergs etc. The galley crew were also busy setting up the evening’s barbecue, a lovely tradition of these cruises! A quiet afternoon then? No. BOOM! Emperor Penguin off the port side. This one was even better than the previous day’s. Joking that it has been kidnapped on the Snow Hill recce, instead it must have spotted us from afar and made its way to check us out. They are inquisitive like that. This one was also braying and jumping on and off small ice floes, with some great angles and close-range images possible from through the scuppers on the fore deck! Another genuine WOW moment. Interesting to note that it appeared while my heli-ride slot was taking place, funny that! There was a ready-made celebration in the form of the excellent barbecue on the deck behind the bridge this evening. It will be hard to forget Tom Jones blasting ‘Sex bomb, sex bomb, you’re my sex bomb’ through the big speakers, with the Emperor Penguin in the distance. Truly surreal.

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

Emperor Penguin, Antarctic Sound (Mike Watson)

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ANTARCTIC PETREL

Antarctic Petrel, 70NM north of South Shetland Islands (Mike Watson)

ANTARCTIC PETREL! I was lucky to be able to shout this a few times on my recent Birdquest, Antarctica: In Search of the Emperor Penguin tour. There’s more to it though. Last time I was down there I only saw one of these ‘Ice Petrels’. It is one of a trio of birds that you really need to go to Antarctica for, along with Emperor and Adelie Penguins. Snow Petrel occurs in South Georgia, South Polar Skua can be seen in the northern hemisphere and the Antarctic form of Imperial Shag is currently lumped. That’s it. Early one morning I was making my usual pre-birding visit to the hot chocolate machine in the saloon of MV Plancius when one flew past the window. In a panic I raced around the ship trying to get the message to the other folks on the tour, failing miserably and by the time I had gone through all the motions of that it was flying away from the ship, into the distance, not to be seen again. That was it, no photo, just a few views through spray-covered windows. Although I had just seen a terrific bird I felt deflated, a crazy outcome of what should have been an exciting experience. My pals said I was wrong to have attempted to get anyone else, birds often come and go quickly and if you want to see it then you ought to be on deck looking. I’ve come around to this way of thinking and it really is the only practical solution. If something significant turns up and sticks for a while then the expedition team can use the communications system to announce it.

Antarctic Petrel no.#1 in a force 10 snow storm wasn’t easy to see, it didn’t stay for long and while it did, viewing conditions were poor

After our first brief sighting, north of the South Shetland Islands (but south of the convergence), which was only seen by a couple of us, we had to wait for a few days until the next, which was in glorious sunshine in the Bransfield Strait and circled the boat for at least five minutes, allowing everyone to get up on deck and see it thanks to the tannoy. It was high-flying and often above eye-level, with two Pintado Petrels and after some time their circling became quicker and the trio gained height before zooming away somewhere.

Antarctic Petrel Sighting no. #2 is much more obliging complete with evening sunshine and blue sky!

We were all quite happy to see this one, but some folks arrived too late to get a look at its upperside. So, the pair of them that followed the boat for almost TWELVE HOURS (!!!) on our northward journey in the Drake Passage was very welcome indeed. We could take a rest, have something to eat etc and go out on deck and there they were, still zooming around the boat, in better light in the afternoon and with a gang of other excellent seabirds. A quite incredible encounter, after which we couldn’t wish for better. They were so close at times you could almost reach out and touch them as they sped past deck six! I even saw them from my cabin porthole. Alain had three together late in the afternoon, before all of the seabirds veered away, more or less at the convergence. What a great experience that was, even better than the penguins for me!

Antarctic Petrels nos. #3 & #4 were even better, almost twelve hours of buy one get one free!

The Antarctic Petrels occasionally dropped lower to water level, allowing some great looks at the upperparts

Antarctic Petrel is a powerfully built seabird, hardly surprising considering where it lives

Antarctic Petrel - Ian Lewington painting effect?

Antarctic Petrel through the wake

Following the leader, Black-browed Albatross, with an Antarctic Prion in tow

Pintado (or Cape) Petrel for comparison, I love the description in Howell’ & Zufelt’s excellent Oceanic Birds book that ‘Antarctic Petrel looks like a Pintado Petrel that has been organised’.

Snow Petrel - we were treated to so many great looks at the other ‘Ice Petrel’.

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WHITE-BELLIED SEEDSNIPE IN ARGENTINA

White-bellied Seedsnipe, Rio Valdez (Mike Watson)

BY NOVEMBER WHITE-BELLIED SEEDSNIPE HAS RETURNED TO ITS ALPINE ANDEAN BREEDING GROUNDS. THE classic site for it is Garibaldi Pass, on Ruta 3 north of Ushuaia, in Argentina’s far south. Crikey, as we crossed the pass, I was delighted that Birding Ushuaia had recently pioneered access to a much more accessible site for it, seeing its habitat above the endless Southern Beech treeline now covered in deep snow, in fact it was still snowing. After my encounter in Chile in September, I was keen to catch up with it on its breeding grounds but instead of enjoying watching it at leisure, it was clearly going to be a challenge to reach the required altitude in this weather let alone be able to locate one in the snow. ‘Do they stay up high in bad weather?’ was a hopeful question. ‘Yes’, the disappointing answer from our guide Federico. The new site in the Rio Valdez reserve is on the nothern side of the Andean watershed and does not bear the same brunt of weather coming from the south as Garibaldi Pass. The weather was still poor, the mountains above Ushuaia had a fresh covering of snow and we had already seen some evidence that things were rough up high today in the form of a mini fall of Dark-faced Ground Tyrants near our hotel on the edge of town. This was the tail-end of a large storm that had killed hikers in Torres del Paine some days earlier, no wonder I couldn’t see it through the mass of cloud my flight had entered after leaving El Calafate. Other gems driven downslope by the snowfall were a flock of Austral Parakeets feeding on dandelions in town (!!!) and the high-altitude loving Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant that we saw on the gravel airstrip at Lago Escondido en route to the the north side.

Austral Parakeet, Ushuaia (Mike Watson)

Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant, Lago Escondido (Mike Watson)

Eventually we made our way up through the beechwoods on the north side of the mountains, timber is harvested here and there are forestry roads, complete with padlocked gates(!), it would be difficult to reach the highlands above the forest without a guide with keys, even armed with waypoints. The trailhead at the end of the rutted forest track lies only a gentle 4km uphill stroll from the seedsnipe habitat, much easier than the 45 degree Garibaldi Pass slopes and more akin to a walk up Longridge Fell at home. However, it was a drag today in the snow, significantly trickier than usual and where it did not lie in the forest the track was waterlogged. It would normally be very enjoyable through the lovely, pristine, moss-covered beech trees. We left the trees behind and crossed an area of longer grassland before a snowy hillside. Yellow-bridled Finch and Rufous-chested Dotterel, two specialities of this spot, appear in quick succession. The males of both these extraordinarily beautiful birds lit up the white landscape and afforded stunningly close views. Ochre-naped Ground Tyrants had also stayed up here, at a slightly lower elevation than the pass. We paused for a cup of coffee, as Federico guided us to a likely spot for the seedsnipe, which he keeps regular tabs on, and indeed, one is there, sheltering in a snow-free streambed. So nice to see it on its alpine breeding grounds! But the snow is already melting now, swirls of mist evaporate from the lichen-covered hillside as it is time to leave, quite a different scene to our arrival here!

Yellow-bridled Finch, Rio Valdez (Mike Watson)

Rufous-chested Dotterel, Rio Valdez (Mike Watson)

White-bellied Seedsnipe, Rio Valdez (Mike Watson)

White-bellied Seedsnipe, Rio Valdez (Mike Watson)

Rio Valdez scenes (Mike Watson)

White-bellied Seedsnipe country, Rio Valdez (Mike Watson)

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