Comment

BELOWEZHSKAYA PUSHCHA NATIONAL PARK, BELARUS

Eurasian Lynx, Belowezhskaya Pushcha NP.

An evening drive north into the vast Beloweshskaya Pushcha National Park protected area of the forest produced around 20 Wild Boars, 10 Red Deer, 2 Western Roe Deer as well as the desired European Bison, a bull in the evening in a quiet meadow followed by another nearby at dusk. A Eurasian Nightjar and a Long-eared Owl were also spotlit but the highlight of the drive (and the whole tour for all) was the Eurasian Lynx that Dima spotted trotting along the side of the road, wagging its short black tail. It occasionally veered off into the understory next to the road but soon returned to continue on its way somewhere. Dima was able to attract its attention to look round at us from time to time before it finally disappeared after around 20 minutes. Fabulous! After hearing that our guide at Vygonoshansky has only seen lynx twice ever and our guide at Belowezhskaya sees it around three times per year we were not expecting this!

The weather was still rather changeable and rain hammered down as we headed to the forest again for our final day’s birding. Happily the downpour gradually to eased to another fine sunny day and we enjoyed a pleasant morning with a couple of surprises. First of all we visited a Tengmalm’s Owl nest hole in a dead pine tree stump, formerly home to a Black Woodpecker family. Its occupant soon popped its head out of the hole with its Collins Guide ‘astonished look’ on its face and glared at us for a while before deciding we were not worth any more attention and shuffling back into the dark hole. En route to another hole appointment a Pine Marten crossed the road, soon followed by another. Eventually we reached the place to be and were surprised to see that the Eurasian Pygmy Owl we were hoping to see was already looking out of its hole in our direction. It duly obliged with a nice view for all before we left it to tend its nest. What a great trio of sightings to start the day!

After lunch we had a quick look around the animal enclosures, with their sad inhabitants before making our way to the ancient oak grove. Woodpeckers abounded here with White-backed and Middle Spotted particularly welcome. It was hard not to be impressed by the size of some of the ancient deciduous trees here, now a rare sight in lowland Europe and their fallen ancestors left to rot where they fall providing much food for the rest of the ecosystem. Flycatchers were also here too with European Pied, Collared and Red-breasted.

Comment

Comment

SPOROVO RESERVE, BELARUS

Aquatic Warbler, Sporovo Reserve.

We were not quite finished yet today. Pressing on towards our hotel at Bereza we started our exploration of the vast sedge fens of the Sporovo reserve. The main attraction here is the rapidly declining Aquatic Warbler. Time really is running out for this sedge fen specialist and sooner rather than later is a good plan if you want to see it. The sun was still shining and we had no trouble in locating at least three of these buzzing little warblers not far from the roadside, singing atop bull rush stems. A couple of Sedge Warblers allowed a good comparison with the much simpler buzzing song of Aquatic Warbler. The following morning we visited another sedge fen area where we found another very obliging Aquatic Warbler. There were many Sedge Warblers here as well as a few Eurasian Reed Warblers and a Common Grasshopper Warbler but the stars of the show were the lovely Citrine Wagtails, including two lemon yellow males.

Comment

Comment

VYGONOSHANSKY RESERVE, BELARUS

Great Grey Owl, Vygonoshansky Reserve.

Heading further west we spotted a pair of Crested Larks by the roadside, a bird we had missed last time. One of them was busily collecting nesting material, including a piece of string! Eventually we stopped in a small village to pick up our local guide, who devotes his life to, amongst other things, studying the population of Great Grey Owls in the forests of Vygonoshansky. He took us straight to one of his six nest sites this season. An encounter with a Great Grey Owl is a very moving experience for anyone, not just birders so you can imagine the excitement amongst those of us who had waited their whole lives for this moment. The massive female owl of the pair stared down at us while we stood not far from where her young were hiding for half an hour or so, her partner was somewhere not far away but we did not search for him or their youngsters, keeping our disturbance of their secret lives to a minimum. The concentric barring of her huge round face is like no other owl and although I have seen many in captivity there is nothing like seeing Great Grey Owl in its natural forest home. The owls in southern Belarus are found far to the south of the true Taiga zone and are birds of mixed Alder and pine forest bogs, specializing in preying on hydrophilus vole species. Also in this area we visited a Tawny Owl nest box, where a couple of well grown fluffy chicks poked their heads out to take a look at us. Their parent was nearby but did not show well for anyone, the mobbing of Blackbirds and jays marking its position. A very nice surprise here was a Hazel Grouse next that we were taken too, complete with a female sitting on it, tucked in close to the trunk of a birch tree. This was a great ‘pickup’ for those on the main tour only but also a better look for those not. The woodland here is particularly lovely with carpets of Lily of the Valley. A group of 38 Common Cranes were in roadside fields outside the forest and we also stopped to take a quick look at the German WWI fortifications. This area also marked the front line between German and Russian forces in 1918 and some of the bunkers have proved difficult to remove for developments almost 100 years later. Apparently a road was planned to go through the site of one but all attempts to destroy it failed. Owing to the sandy soil, the Germans had sunk very deep foundations into the ground and eventually the road builders gave up, buried the bunker and built the road over the top of it!

Great Grey Owl, Vygonoshansky Reserve.

Comment

Comment

PRIPYATSKY NATIONAL PARK, BELARUS

Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker, Pripyatsky National Park (female).

After our introduction to the forest of Pripyatsky national park we were looking forward to heading deeper into it! After breakfast it was time to head east towards our next accommodation. Not far from Turov a male Hen Harrier flew by, an uncommon bird in Belarus and another one new for the Birdquest Belarus list. We made several stops along the way, seeing a Lesser Spotted Eagle following the plough and as we watched it another goshawk flew over. Another regular stop produced a fine Barred Warbler in almost the same bush as in 2014 but this time a much nicer view of its intricately barred plumage and evil orange eye. We stopped again to investigate some more nice flooded oak forest, seeing the dark tide marks around the trunks of the trees that marked the highest extent of previous floods. A pair of Terek Sandpipers was on the bank of a creek and Middle Spotted Woodpecker was new for our list here. At a large clearing we added Short-toed Snake Eagle to the Birdquest BY list, while more Black Storks flew overhead along with a European Honey Buzzard and a couple of White-tailed Eagles. After another nice picnic lunch in lovely surroundings we reached the River Pripyat shore at Doroshevichy. The ferry was waiting for us and a short crossing took us to the northern bank of the river and our wonderful wooden lodge, home for the next couple of nights.

Corn Crake, Pripyatsky National Park.

The surrounding area of mostly forest with river valley scrub and marshes and small villages dotted here and there is very birdy and we explored a couple of villages, finding a pair of Azure Tits building a nest in a fence post at one and a couple of very co-operative Corn Crakes at another, where we also enjoyed some very nice views of a singing (if you can call it that) wryneck. They are always a real pleasure to hear singing as well as to see. Deeper into the forest we had a superb encounter with a pair of Eurasian Three-toed Woodpeckers in a flooded pine bog. This was a relief for those on the main tour only but took our tally to five this time round! At this time in spring when they are busy feeding young they can be unresponsive and tricky to find.

Corn Crake, Pripyatsky National Park.

In between excursions we did some river watching from the sandy bluff above the Pripyat in the grounds of the lodge. I fancied this as a good visible migration watch point and we started to back this theory up with some evidence. Looking south across the river it is possible to scan a very wide area of countryside for birds following the course of the Pripyat, which should represent a major flyway for migration between the Baltic and Black Seas. The best sessions were around lunchtime and in the late afternoon and produced a total of 21 European Honey Buzzards heading northwest across the river in less than two hours, OK not exactly Eilat or Batumi but still interesting inland in Eastern Europe. Frequent Black Storks, White-tailed Eagles and Western Marsh Harriers also livened up the sessions but these were no doubt local birds. There was a small eastward passage of Caspian Gulls one evening and I think that earlier in the season when there is more migration taking place things could be very interesting indeed if someone fancies staying at a very nice lodge with birding on the doorstep.

European Honey-Buzzard (male), Doroshevichy riverwatch, Pripyatsky National Park.

The village itself and its surrounding meadows and riverside willows is picturesque and an early morning pre-breakfast walk produced a very showy Corn Crake calling from wild boar diggings, singing River Warbler and Azure Tit as well as a pair of Terek Sandpipers on the riverbank. Wonderful stuff! Our evening spotlighting drives in the Pripyatsky National Park produced a couple of nice encounters with Eurasian Pygmy Owl, which can sometimes be a tricky bird to see at this time of year as well as some good views of Tawny Owl and Eurasian Woodcock. A couple of Corn Crakes were attracted to a recording of their song landing right next to us in the dark! Brown Hare, a wild boar and Red Fox were other notable sightings.

Male Azure Tit singing from ancient willows by the Pripyat River near Doroshevichy, Pripyatsky National Park, May 2015.

During our time here we also made a very enjoyable afternoon river cruise for several hours along the River Pripyat, seeing the lovely riverine habitat and some of its inhabitants from a different perspective. The highlight was at least 34(!) Terek Sandpipers along the riverbank to the west of Doroshevichy. Impossible to tell whether these birds were all holding territory or on passage as they were accompanied by Ruffs, Common Greenshank, Wood Sandpipers and Temminck’s Stints but some were engaging in courtship behavior and this is a very impressive count in Europe regardless! Five species of terns (Little, Common, White-winged, Black and Whiskered) were present along the river, Thrush Nightingales sang from the shadows, River Warblers belted out their weird sewing machine reeling songs, another Azure Tit flashed its snazzy blue-and-white plumage in an old willow and towards evening family parties of Wild Boars emerged to drink at the water’s edge.

Terek Sandpipers, Pripyat River.

As I watched news coverage of the nuclear disaster at Chernobyl back in 1986, now only around sixty miles downstream of us, I never imagined that in less than 30 years I would be quite so close to it. The radiation levels of the core zone are now such that the entombed reactor has even become a tourist attraction. It has also become a haven for wildlife, which thrives undisturbed there, particularly wolves and elk. Obviously a nuclear disaster is preferable to human habitation from a wildlife point of view.

Pripyat River just upstream from Doroshevichy.

Ancient willows at Doroshevichy, Pripyatsky National Park.

Comment