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FALSE COMMA


False Comma Nympahlis vau-album - showing its white ‘V’. One of Europe’s rarest butterflies!

The False Comma Nymphalis vau-album (or Compton Tortoiseshell, as it is known in North America) has always been a scarce butterfly on the western limit of its range in Europe. In recent years it has become even more so, and is considered extinct in Austria, Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Slovenia and Slovakia. However, it seems to be holding its own in the mountains of southeast Serbia and a number of butterfly tour companies now target this spectacular nymphalid. I was privileged to join my friend János Oláh’s 2025 Sakertours Serbia butterfly watching tour. János applies the same level of determination and planning to finding rare butterflies as he does to birds and we had a fantastic time, recording 110 species in five full days including some very sought after ones. As well as False Comma, in this small corner of Serbia, near the Bulgarian border, we also saw: Yellow-banded Skipper Pyrgus sidae; Apollo Parnassius apollo; Violet Copper Lycaenea helle (among seven species of copper!); Blue Argus Aricia anteros; Bog Fritillary Boloria eunomia (among seventeen species of fritillary); Poplar Admiral Limentis populi (four, of the all dark form tremulae, prevalent in the Balkans); the enigmatic Lesser Lattice Brown Kirinia climene; Russian Heath Coenonympha leander; Bulgarian Ringlet Erebia orientalis and Almond-eyed Ringlet Erebia albergana, to mention a few.

This False Comma has a small notch in its left wing and was easily identified as the same individual.

János has done a lot of testing over the last few years, checking the optimum timing for this tour and he concluded that 11 June was a good start date for freshly emerged butterflies of a wide range of species hopefully including False Comma at the beginning of its season. However, after one of the coldest springs on record in eastern Europe this year we were nervous that we might be too early this time. We need not have worried; it seemed that the recent warm weather just before the tour start had got things back on track for some normal flight timings. There are zillions of waypoints available online for previous sightings of False Comma, but it is a mobile butterfly, so it pays to know some of its favourite spots. There is much else to see in this part of Serbia and János promised all the other butterflies as well, so we did not devote 100% of our time to searching for False Comma. There is evidence that it is mostly active in Serbia between 8.30AM and 12PM in warm conditions in June/July, with ‘virtually no activity after midday’ (Gascoigne-Pees et al 2014) and we spent plenty of time in known previous locations around this time. So, we were interested to get a hot tip from Isidor Saric that he had seen one along one of the forest tracks we had walked along a couple of days earlier, but at 3PM. He was spot on with the location though, and, to our delight, it was still present, a few metres from where we started to search! A great bit of spotting by Jasmin, as it flew down from the forest canopy to a tiny ditch behind us.

Easily overlooked on the ground among the debris of the small spring-fed ditch.

The only wet areas of the dirt track were where spring water from uphill appeared at its edge, there had not been any rain recently in what was turning into a prolonged dry spell. We watched it more or less continuously from 1145 to 1303 on 15 June, taking salts, or perched up in the canopy, at around 4-5m from the ground, usually on leaves but a couple of times on a tree trunk. At 790m ASL this sighting was at the lower end of the altitudinal range and well short of the regular 1569m ASL Babin Zub Hotel site. The temperature was around 25 degrees Celsius, and it was noticeable that it only flew to the ground after basking in sunshine. When the sun was occasionally covered by a cloud it remained in the leaves. It also stuck to a stretch of around only 20m, and mostly flew up or down, rather than along the track, so it would be very easy to miss if our walk by did not coincide with one of its visits to the ground, as had presumably happened already. We had seen plenty of other butterflies taking salts along this track, including numerous Commas Polygonia c-album but had drawn a blank with False Comma until now. When taking salts, it could be approached quite closely with care, but it did not like rapid movements. A very special close encounter with one of Europe’s rarest butterflies!

False Comma, taking salts from a trackside ditch.

Its distribution is not limited by the source of food as their caterpillars have quite a wide range of food plants including common birch, willow, poplar and elm species. So, the recent decline in Europe is thought to be climate related. False Commas are thought to have quite specific climate requirements, favouring prolonged and stable sub-zero temperatures during hibernation (in such places as old wood stacks and disused buildings) but they do not do well when early warm spells are followed by severe frosts. When they emerge, they do not seek nectar but other substances including sap and animal excrement. Eggs are laid in shady and damp spots in woodland, not in direct sunlight as with some other nymphs. N. vau-album is also strongly migratory (especially to the east of Europe) and this may have influenced records in eastern Europe but the consistent presence of fresh adults in Serbia means it is certainly breeding there and therefore must be a habitat and climatic sweet spot.

The spectacular False Comma, a life-changing experience for butterfly enthusiasts!

False Comma retreats to the trees when disturbed, or just when it has taken on enough salts.

False Comma keeping an eye on us from the canopy.

 

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ECUADOR'S CHOCÓ 20 YEARS LATER

Giant Antpitta, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

In 2005 I made an epic visit to Ecuador with János Oláh, targeting birds he had not seen on his previous visit, but this meant lots of tough-to-see species, particularly antpittas. We had an incredible time, but my tripod broke on day 1 so no digiscoping or any kind of photography for me. This was one year before I got my first DSLR and as time went by, some of the rarer birds got easier to see and to photograph with the explosion in feeding stations at lodges. I had a couple of days to fill in Quito before my Galapagos tour this year so, where better to spend them than the cloud forest of the west slope of the Andes? Unfortunately, the timing of my visit did not coincide with recent sightings of some of my most-wanted Choco specials, like Banded Ground Cuckoo, Rufous-crowned Antpitta and Tooth-billed Hummingbird but there were still plenty of new ones possible and it would be great to photograph some old favourites.

Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Arriving in the afternoon, tired after a long journey I got biffed instantly by Europcar at Quito airport for ‘their insurance’. They refused to recognise the insurance I had bought with the car rental via booking.com. So, don’t bother with the booking.com insurance was the answer and don’t use them again. A disappointing scam. Also, I should also have hired a more powerful car than the little Chevvy Groove SUV, there are some long uphill climbs and goodness me, the entrance drive to Tandayapa Lodge is steep and has some wicked turns. It was interesting to do this now unfamiliar drive in the dark and 20 years after I was last there! The staff at Tandayapa are excellent and looked after me very well, the food was great and it was simply magical to stay at a lodge in the cloudforest again, surrounded by hummingbirds! Tandayapa Valley is the world capital of hummingbirds and one of those true world birding Meccas that everyone goes to eventually. It had lost none of its charm in the last two decades and in fact it has got even better, more of this later.

Rose-faced Parrot, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Rose-faced Parrot, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

With so little time, this meant a 4AM start next morning bound for Mashpi Amagusa. This lodge was not on the established birding circuit last time, but it has gained a reputation for birds that are more difficult in the Mindo area, including some that I missed in 2005. After at least one million bends, dodgy mapping and some sketchy tracks I finally rolled up at 6.30AM. Without trying to drive up a path to someone’s house and in daylight it was much quicker on the way back! My local birding guide Sergio, the owner of the lodge met me at the gates, and we got down to birding immediately, starting with the moth trap. This is another modern phenomenon that offers an opportunity to see insectivorous birds very easily, attracted to a large white sheet covered with moths. I can’t imagine that moth lovers like it though, watching a wide variety of stunning moth species being eaten for breakfast in front of them, there goes another hawkmoth down the gullet of a woodcreeper. It is a very efficient way to see birds in a short space of time. This was not the only feeder here though, there were bananas and papaya too for fruit lovers. Bird activity was great before my own breakfast! I added some good new birds: Purple-chested Hummingbird, Rose-faced Parrot (at least 12 came in to the bananas first thing, something of a Mashpi speciality now and such a welcome catch up as I had missed it at Rio Bombuscaro in 2005 with stomach trouble while my pals all saw it), Uniform Treehunter, Bronze-olive Pygmy Tyrant, Choco Tyrannulet, Black-billed Peppershrike, Choco Vireo, Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Indigo Flowerpiercer and Glistening Green and White-winged Tanagers. Best of all were the three Black Solitaires we found in the forest away from the lodge. Hanging around the feeder for Dark-backed Wood Quail or trying for the solitaire was an easy choice. Jonas had shown me a log on which a Black Solitaire had perched 20 years ago, and we failed to find it, so I had wanted to see one ever since. What a smart bird it is too. The white pectoral tufts came as a surprise. Other good birds on what ended as a 95 species day were two of the best hummingbirds: Green-fronted Lancebill and Velvet-Purple Coronet (from the breakfast table), plus Golden-headed Quetzal, Bicolored Antbird, Orange-breasted Fruithunter, Golden-winged and Club-winged Manakins, Lemon-rumped, Flame-faced and Black-chinned Mountain Tanagers and the excellent Bangsia, Moss-backed Tanager, which I had seen in the mist 20 years ago. Here it was a couple of metres away while eating breakfast! Thanks to Janet and Doris too, for making my short visit a very enjoyable one. I will be back! I love watching the mist swirl up the forested hillsides, with occasional gaps revealing a wonderful tapestry of cloud forest trees. It is the steep slopes that cannot be cultivated that has saved this precious habitat. I had a little time back at Tandayapa spent watching the hummingbird feeders, which were incredibly busy. No lifers but a cool 12 species including Sparkling Violetear, Violet-tailed Sylph, Fawn-breasted and Green-crowned Brilliants and White-necked Jacobin. What a way to spend your time!

Green-fronted Lancebill, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Ornate Flyctcher, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Velvet Purple Coronet, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Moss-backed Tanager, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Black Solitaire, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Black Solitaire habitat, Mashpi Amagusa (Mike Watson)

Next day saw another modern classic world birding hotspot, Refugio Paz de las Aves. Everyone who is interested in world birding goes here at least once in their life! Accessed by another rutted, bumpy track this place shot to fame soon after my visit to Ecuador with its habituated antpittas. We had toiled in the forest, hiding on precipitous muddy slopes in the hope of luring them into view and although I was thrilled to see them, including Giant, Moustached, Scaled, Crescent-faced (all the tough ones) I have nothing to show for it 20 years later bar some sketches and fading memories. So, I was keen to take some photos! The action-packed morning starts with a visit to one (!they have more than one!) of their Andean Cock-of-Rock leks. Another annoying gap from 2005! Janó had seen it before of course and we only heard it on his second visit. They are difficult to see away from their leks. It was a noisy and exhilarating experience to finally set eyes on this bird! At least seven males were spread around the trees in front of the hide, with one dominant bird in the centre, who had several scraps with potential usurpers, kicking them back out to the periphery. The light was poor, the distance was too great, the birds often facing away, excuses, excuses, excuses but I loved it. They are laser dot red in the darkness of the forest and what a racket they make, constantly screeching at each other. Cotingas really are the Birds of Paradise of the Neotropics! Crested Guan was new here as well but apart from these two, everything else was an old friend.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

Angel Paz and his brother Rodrigo have created something very special here and their ‘show birds’ are a classic example of what can be accomplished in grass roots conservation. The reserve is a working farm with steep, forested slopes and gullies, where the special cloud forest birds cling on. Rodrigo was down one of these slopes already and was joined by Angel. After a tense wait Angel returned with the news that Maria was there. We descended at least one million steps into a world of mossy, bryophyte-covered trees and slippery, muddy slopes to a contour trail where Maria was. She is actually at least Maria III, all their Giant Antpittas are called Maria after the first bird they started feeding around 20 years ago. We enjoyed some terrific views of her as she came for the food put down for her, she didn’t eat it but took it back into the undergrowth where we could just about see her well-grown chick. Fab-u-lous! A tip. Don’t push the ISO up too high. Lower the shutter speed instead. The antpitta will freeze for you every now and again and you can rely on IS and super-steady hands instead.

Giant Antpitta, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

A pair of Swallow-tailed Kites circled the valley, and we broke off for breakfast at the Paz restaurant. More unexpectedly great facilities and especially great locally grown coffee! How times have changed in this region. After breakfast we had another couple of antpittas to see. First on the agenda was Yellow-breasted. Another I had seen very nicely on the old Nono-Mindo road all those years ago but no lasting memory aid. I don’t think the Yellow-breasted has a name, but it showed beautifully. ‘Where do you want it?’ ‘The middle of the waterfall would be good’ and so it was, with a watery background. Incredible! Shakira was next on stage. That is what they call every Ochre-breasted Antpitta. They use a nice mossy branch for this one, great for close ups. It had started to rain now. Exactly what they taught us about rain forests in school. ‘How long do you think it will rain for?’ ‘No idea’ ‘Could it rain all afternoon, or could it stop soon?’ ‘Yes’, to both. Back at Tandayapa, where it also rained all afternoon, the hummer activity was intense and Lesser Violetear was a new one I’d missed in ’05.

Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

Rodrigo, KC, some other guy and Angel at Refugio Paz de las Aves (Mike Watson)

I had hardly stepped outside the lodge garden at Tandayapa, so it was time to explore here a little before heading back to Quito this afternoon. There are still a few birds I haven’t seen in the valley even now after adding Crowned Woodnymph on the hummer feeders, Pallid Dove and the very sneaky and tiny White-throated Spadebill. I also had some very nice looks at the lovely Toucan Barbet, Strong-billed and Spotted Woodcreepers and Russet-crowned Warbler at the all-you-can-eat moth buffet. The local form of Red Brocket Deer was a surprise. So ended my time in the Choco, it must be one of my favourite habitats. One of the most diverse in the world and there are still plenty of birds left for me there. It is also just a terrific way to spend your time watching the endless comings and goings at the lodge feeders. Next time! I won’t look forward to the sodding one million enormous speed humps on the road back to Quito though.

Violet-tailed Sylph, Tandayapa Lodge Mike Watson)

Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Tandayapa Lodge Mike Watson)

Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Tandayapa Lodge Mike Watson)

Toucan Barbet, Tandayapa Lodge (Mike Watson)

Pallid Dove, Tandayapa Lodge Mike Watson)

Russet-crowned Warbler, Tandayapa Lodge (Mike Watson)

Tandayapa Lodge Mike Watson)

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STILL GOT IT

A Powerful Owl, doing its best to keep the local population of possums under control

MY PAL ALAN MCBRIDE always used to joke that he’d still got it, well I am happy to report that he still has! I spent a great couple of days birding around Alan’s newish local patch of Melbourne before my recent Birdquest tour downunder mostly in search of a day roosting Powerful Owl for the incoming group. Well, it took us longer than anticipated but almost 20,000 steps later we found one, with a little help from another friend Field Guides’ Chris Benesh. Using eBird can sometimes be frustrating as recent waypoints are not always accurate and sightings are not up-to-date enough, so it is often a good idea to go and take a look first. One site we visited was a nest hole, which had been vacated in the previous week and was now occupied by a Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, another day roosting spot had simply been deserted. So it was a relief when we set eyes on this massive creature peering down at us in a public park in downtown Melbourne, early office workers passing by under it, morning coffee in hand. It ultimately stayed put for the group and almost as good was the excellent Garden View Cafe right next to the park! We love a good pie shop! A tour of Alan’s local patch, the Western Water Treatment Plant at Werribee was also very worthwhile, producing some ace views of trickier species like Musk Duck and Baillon’s and Australian Crakes. This spot also has a great cafe within easy reach, no wonder Alan spends so much time here. There are kilometres of drivable tracks around pools, many of which are filled with birds. What a brilliant place! We stopped at another excellent bakery, Oaks in Anglesey on our way to Point Roadknight, where by chance we bumped into Chris, Jesse Fagan and their Field Guides group, watching Hooded Plovers and Pacific Gulls, it’s a small birding world indeed. Thanks Alan!

He’s still got it!

Musk Duck, another of Australia’s unqiue avifauna

Australian Crake at Werribee, very confiding!

Baillon’s Crake seems to be easier to see in Australia than anywhere else I’ve been

The primitive Cape Barren Goose is a weird bird indeed, it has established a small foothold at Werribee

A pair of Pacific Gulls hanging around a fur seal at Point Roadknight

Ready for action!

It’s amazing where you can find Inger Vandyke’s images! Here’s one in Alan’s apartment.

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MOUNTAIN PEACOCK PHEASANT

Mountain Peacock Pheasant, Bukit Tinggi

MOUNTAIN PEACOCK PHEASANT is a ‘one site bird’, although it occurs more widely throughout the highlands of Peninsular Malaysia, it can only be seen regularly at one place in the world - Bukit Tinggi in Pahang state, around an hour and a half drive from the Kuala Lumpur’s international airport. In a nutshell it took me three days to see one! Things have changed at Bukit Tinggi. Whether it is the fact that fewer Malay bird photographers now visit this spot (so the food put out to lure the peacock pheasant has diminished), or the disturbance caused by a large fallen tree, or the establishment of an ill-considered second screen (where any watchers are silhouetted by the rising sun), or simply that the birds’ behaviour has been changed by some other factor, who knows? What I can say is that it did not appear on two of the days I spent at the tiny feeding station screen. I had seen so many images of these beautiful birds against the backdrop I was now looking at, that it felt like I had already seen one. Imagining what it would be like if and when one turned up during the many hours I spent staring at the same scene, it was a very exciting moment when a fine male finally walked out of the forest and onto the old trail. WOW! The traversing of KL’s ridiculously complex traffic system (I did wonder if it might be possible to go round and round and run out of petrol before following the correct off ramp), the very odd accommodation in Bukit Tinggi’s Colmar Tropicale resort (modelled on the Alsatian town of Colmar!) and many hours of sitting on the muddy forest floor watching nothing most of the time proved worthwhile. I do wonder how long it might last at Bukit Tinggi before something brings this wonderful opportunity to a close, so sooner rather than later probably applies yet again.

Every now and again there were some nice distractions while waiting for the peacock pheasant. A beautiful male Siberian Blue Robin was present each morning (but not in the afternoon), freshly arrived for the winter from Russia, Buff-breasted Babblers and Ochraceous Bulbuls also showed an interest in the feeding station and Brown-backed Needletails zoomed around high over the forest. On one afternoon a group of gorgeous Dusky Langurs moved noisily through the trees overhead. On another occasion a small mammal was rooting around under the fallen tree trunks, I thought it must be a rat of some kind but I was surprised to see that it had a long snout like a treeshrew. It was actually a Gymnure, a soft-furred hedgehog, presumably Max’s Hylomys maxi on distribution/altitude. It was nice to be back in the forest in this region after 20 years! I also met some very nice birders from Singapore, Sebastian Ow, Eunice Kong and their friends. All incredibly quiet and polite! Unlike the couple who spent one morning blasting playback from the other screen, seemingly oblivious to the main position and I heard later from James Eaton that Ferruginous Partridge does not like incessant playback anyway. The partridges have not visited regularly in recent months. There were also some flashy butterflies around, but unfortunately not the big one I was hoping for, that would have to wait until Fraser’s Hill in a couple of days time. I could hear Siamangs calling while up on the ridge and I descended down through the Japanese Garden in their direction but their far carrying whooping calls were coming from somewhere out of reach way down in the valley below. Driving back to the highway I was happy to finally catch sight of a family group of this impressive large black gibbon, the huge male swinging through the trees.

Leopard Lacewing Cethosia cyane, Bukit Tinggi Japanese Garden

Dwarf Crow Euploea tulliolus, Bukit Tinggi Japanese Garden

Siberian Blue Robin

Siberian Blue Robin

Siamang, Bukit Tinggi

Dusky Langur

Presumed Max’s Gymnure Hylomys maxi, Bukit Tinggi

Stormy skies over the forest ridges at Bukit Tinggi

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